Today, we’re exploring three Grande Champagne cognacs: Laurichesse, Marancheville, and Ragnaud Sabourin. I must confess, my appreciation for cognac has been steadily growing. For a long time, I was so captivated by whisky that other spirits seemed dull in comparison, lacking the depth and complexity of flavours. However, over the past six to twelve months, I’ve delved deeper into cognac, learning to distinguish between the different crus and even recognizing them blind sometimes. I realise now that I was mistaken to overlook cognac before; it’s a remarkable spirit with a rich history that whisky can’t always match. Now, let’s see how these three cognacs measure up. I haven’t researched their ages beforehand, so we’ll taste them in order of increasing ABV.
Ragnaud Sabourin Grande Réserve Grande Champagne Cognac Review
Founded in the 1850s, the Ragnaud Sabourin house boasts a 35-hectare estate in the prestigious Grande Champagne cru. I have limited information about this Ragnaud Sabourin Grande Réserve Grande Champagne Cognac, but I do know that it contains no additives and is bottled at 41% ABV. It might be a Cognac-Expert exclusive as I can’t find it anywhere else. Around €179/$206£143 a bottle.
Colour:
Chestnut.
Nose:
Neat: This cognac begins with a promising aroma. It opens with notes of apricots and peaches, accompanied by hints of pineapple. Additionally, there are subtle notes of menthol and aniseed, contributing to a fruity and fresh profile. Light aromas of oak, laurel, vanilla, and honey are also present.
Palate:
Neat: At first, the mouthfeel is somewhat light, but the flavours are surprisingly complex. Initially, there is a taste of strawberry jam, which quickly gives way to notes of ginger, pepper, blood oranges, and tinned pineapple in syrup. Furthermore, warm and bitter notes of oak and dark chocolate emerge, complemented by whispers of peppermint and nasturtium.
Finish:
The finish is medium to long, characterised by flavours of toasted wood, peach, and juicy plums.
Comments:
The nose is very pleasant and fruity, with a fresh herbaceous quality and a subtle influence of oak. The palate is enjoyable, featuring a delightful strawberry note that fades quickly. However, the mouthfeel is somewhat light, likely due to reduction, which suggests this may not be its natural strength. This lightness makes the mouthfeel slightly thin and weak. Nevertheless, the flavours on the palate are excellent. The finish is satisfying, with good length and flavour. Overall, this Ragnaud Sabourin Grande Réserve Grande Champagne is a very good cognac that could have been exceptional with a bit more strength.
Rating: 7.5/10
Marancheville Lot N°70 Grande Champagne Cognac Review
This Marancheville Lot N°70 Grande Champagne (see my previous review from a Marancheville for more information about them) is a blend of at least 10 eaux-de-vie from the 1970s. These eaux-de-vie matured in different cellars: Laurent’s humid cellar, Gregoire’s rather dry cellar, and a humid one on the banks of the Charente, using casks ranging from 250 to 400 liters. This Marancheville is at least 45 years old and is bottled at 41.5%. You can expect to pay around £280/€350/$400 for it on Cognac-Expert or at Cognacthèque for instance.
Colour:
Tawny.
Nose:
Neat: The nose begins with notes of precious woods and candied orange, followed by pineapple and hints of mango. Subtle whispers of milk chocolate, leather, eucalyptus, and very light leafy aromas also emerge.
Palate:
Neat: The mouthfeel is light yet creamy, with an initial burst of tropical fruits such as mango and passion fruit. This is accompanied by candied orange and tropical fruit jelly, along with a slight tang of lemon juice and grapefruit. Additionally, there are notes of varnished exotic woods, and the tannins gently dry the gums.
Finish:
The tropical fruit flavors persist, now accompanied by raw oak staves. Just when you think the finish has faded, the tropical fruits linger on the tongue in an ethereal manner, if you pay close attention.
Comments:
This Marancheville Lot N°70 Grande Champagne is a brilliant whisky. It embodies everything I love about Grande Champagne cognac: fruits, especially tropical ones, balance, and a light presence of wood without excessive tannins or bitterness. The mouthfeel is slightly light but still good enough that the high-quality nose and palate allow it to earn a solid 8/10.
Rating: 8/10
Laurichesse Le Chai de Mon Père Fût 111 Grande Champagne Cognac Review
Maison Laurichesseis a young brand with a link to the past, established in 2018 by Léa and Olivier Laurichesse under the name Laurichesse Cognac. The couple met in Segonzac, where Léa was studying viticulture and Olivier was already managing the family vineyard. Together, they launched a brand to release Cognacs crafted by Olivier’s father, Guy, in the 1970s.
This Laurichesse cognac was distilled in the 1970s by Guy Laurichesse using a 12-hectolitre still that remains on the family estate in Verrières. It comes from a single cask, numbered 111, and was bottled in January 2025 without reduction or additives. The outturn is 276 bottles, priced around $300/€260/£205 on Cognac-Expert or Malternative Belgium for instance.
Colour:
Auburn
Nose:
Neat: The aroma features beautiful rancio, candied orange peel, cigar box, dunnage warehouse, blond pipe tobacco, and a few spices.
Palate:
Neat: The palate mirrors the nose and introduces hints of tropical fruits such as pineapple, passion fruit, and grapefruit, along with ginger and pepper. It is slightly more tannic than the nose suggests, but this is splendid. The mouthfeel is oily, with a light astringency from the tannins, yet it remains perfectly balanced.
Finish:
Notes of wood, cigar tobacco, pepper, and candied orange linger for a very long time. Additionally, there is some elusive smoke, which is unexpected.
Comments:
This is another superb cognac. It has a different profile from the Marancheville, as it is less fruity but offers rancio on the nose and well-balanced tannins and spices on the palate. The elusive hint of smoke in the finish is unexpected but well appreciated. Overall, it is a superb cognac.
Rating: 8/10
Samples provided by Cognac-Expert, and the bottle pictures have been lifted from their website.