"They Don’t Make Whisky Like They Used To."

They Don’t Make Whisky Like They Used To. Literally.

‘They don’t make whisky like they used to.’ It’s the sort of thing whisky enthusiasts like to say after tasting an old bottling, usually followed by something about wax, tropical fruit or an elusive ‘old-school’ character. Taken literally, though, they’re right: whisky really isn’t made exactly as it used to be. Raw materials, production methods, casks and bottling practices have all evolved, while the liquid in those old bottles has sometimes spent another half-century sitting behind a cork or screw cap. So when an old bottling tastes noticeably different from its modern equivalent, what exactly are we tasting – and can we really know why?

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How to read a label

How to read a Scotch whisky bottle label

I spend a fair amount of time looking at labels before I pour anything. Independent bottlers in particular tend to put a lot of information on the bottle, and a little of it is required by law, some of it is voluntary, and some of it is simply the bottler’s own wording. The trouble is that all three look identical in small print.

So while the glass is temporarily empty, I thought I would go through some of the bottles I have reviewed and work out what each line on the label actually tells you – and what it does not.

For the legal side, I am relying mainly on the Scotch Whisky Regulations 2009, together with the Scotch Whisky Product Specification, where it adds relevant details. I will distinguish those rules from labelling conventions and voluntary information supplied by bottlers.

And, as we will eventually discover, this matters: something not specifically defined by the Scotch Whisky Regulations does not necessarily mean that anything goes.

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Glen Garioch 2011 Cadenhead’s / 1998 Thompson Bros

Glen Garioch 2011 Cadenhead’s / 1998 Thompson Bros

It has been a while since Glen Garioch last appeared on More Drams, so it is time to return to the distillery with two independent bottlings with very different stages and types of maturation. First up is a young 2011 Glen Garioch from Cadenhead’s, followed by a much older 1998 release from Thompson Bros. The contrast should be especially interesting: the Cadenhead’s is a 12-year-old with a second maturation in a white port cask, while the Thompson Bros expression spent 27 years in a second-fill barrel.

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Hakushu Distiller's Reserve, 12- and 18-year-old

Hakushu Distiller’s Reserve, 12- and 18-year-old

We reviewed Hakushu 25 Year Old almost two years ago, but what about the rest of the distillery’s core range? Today, I’m filling in that gap with four bottlings: the Hakushu Distiller’s Reserve, the 12 Year Old, and two versions of the classic 18 Year Old. Together, they should provide a useful overview of Hakushu’s house style across different age statements—from the fresher, younger profile of the Distiller’s Reserve through to the more mature, fruit-led and gently smoky character of the 18 Year Old. And since we’ve never properly introduced Hakushu Distillery, we’ll begin with some history.

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Tullibardine Sovereign & 2004 The Whisky Agency

Tullibardine Sovereign & 2004 The Whisky Agency

After the two large French whisky reviews from Friday and Monday, we turn back to Scotland with a shorter review as well. We take a look at Tullibardine with quite opposite bottlings: an ex-bourbon non-age-statement official bottling with the Tullibardine Sovereign, and a 22-year-old Ruby port matured Tullibardine from the independent bottler The Whisky Agency. But first, as it is usual when we introduce a distillery on More Drams, let’s have a short look at the distillery itself.

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7 Peated French Whiskies

7 Peated French Whiskies: Naguelann / Fontagard / Vilanova / Kornog…

After the seven unpeated French single malt whiskies reviewed on Friday, we continue exploring French whisky, but this time with seven peated French whiskies. On the menu, the Naguelann Start, bottled for the Malt in France French whisky show 2025, Fontagard TORB 9121-1, La Piautre d’Eire et d’Alba, the Kornog Single Malt and Santez Erwann 2025, the Vilanova Shed Signature #1 and the Armorik Yeun Elez Jobic single malt.

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7 Unpeated French Single Malt Whiskies

7 French Single Malts: Armorik / Fontagard / Glann Ar Mor / Arlett / Cormeil / Vilanova

Over the past few years, I’ve built up a small collection of French whisky bottles, having been fortunate enough to taste a wide range of releases—mostly across the three editions of Malt in France, the French-whisky-focused show held in Rennes on the first weekend of April since 2024.
My original plan was to gather them all into one large review. However, as the number of bottles kept growing, it made more sense to keep tasting and split the feature into two parts. This first instalment focuses on unpeated French whiskies from distilleries across the country; Monday’s review will turn to the peated side of French whisky.

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Ardmore 2009 TWA 1985 Whiskyland

Ardmore 2009 Whisky Agency / 40yo Whiskyland

Today, I’m looking at two independently bottled Ardmores from very different points in the distillery’s history. The first is a 2009 vintage bottled by The Whisky Agency in 2026 after 16 years in a Port cask, while the second is a 40-year-old 1985 Ardmore from Whiskyland / Decadent Drinks, drawn from a marriage of two refill hogsheads and bottled in 2025. On paper, it looks like an uneven contest: a relatively young, wine-cask-driven Ardmore against a much older whisky shaped by comparatively gentle refill wood. Age alone, however, rarely decides the outcome. The question is whether the younger bottling’s energy and cask influence can match the depth and maturity of the 40-year-old.

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Strathmill Le Gus't The Whisky Agency

Strathmill 14yo Le Gus’t / 38yo The Whisky Agency

I could almost copy/paste last Wednesday’s intro for today’s review, as we’re exploring another distillery that wasn’t covered on More Drams until today: Strathmill. And to do that… we’ll rely on independent bottlers, as official releases are scarce. We’ll start with a 2009 Strathmill bottled by Le Gus’t, then a 1988 Strathmill, 38 years old, bottled by The Whisky Agency.

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Two Secret Islay A Dram of Scotland

Two Secret Islay ‘A Dream Of Scotland’

We explore a couple of secret Islay whiskies, both bottled by German bottler Brüler Whiskyhaus, in its ‘A Dream of Scotland’ range. Both feature what looks like a marking finish: one in a German red wine quarter cask, the other in a Cream sherry quarter cask. Let’s see how the German bottler handled these finishes and if there is something left of the secret Islay distilleries.

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