It has been a while since we last featured Bushmills here, so let’s briefly discuss the distillery’s extensive history – it is, after all, the oldest licensed distillery in the world. After that, we can review a distillery exclusive and two expressions from the core range: the Bushmills 2008, 16- and 21-year-old.
Bushmills Distillery
Bushmills Distillery, located in County Antrim, Northern Ireland, holds the title of the oldest licensed whisk(e)y distillery in the world. King James I granted the original licence to distil in the area in 1608, although records suggest that distillation occurred in the region as early as 1276. The modern distillery traces its roots to 1784, when Hugh Anderson registered the Old Bushmills Distillery.
Throughout the 19th century, Bushmills experienced several changes in ownership and periods of closure. In 1880, the Bushmills Railway line opened, facilitating the transport of goods and boosting the distillery’s fortunes. The distillery faced significant challenges during the early 20th century, including a fire in 1885 and the impact of Prohibition in the United States, a key export market. Despite these setbacks, Bushmills continued to produce whiskey and even supplied spirits to the British Royal Navy during World War II.
In the post-war era, Bushmills underwent modernisation and expansion. Irish Distillers Group acquired the distillery in 1972, and subsequent ownership changes saw Pernod Ricard and Diageo take control. In 2014, Jose Cuervo purchased Bushmills, marking the first time a Mexican company owned an Irish whisky distillery.
Bushmills 2008 Distillery Exclusive (2018) Review
We begin with a previous distillery exclusive: a Bushmills distilled in 2008 and bottled in 2018. It underwent a first maturation in charred bourbon barrels and toasted sherry casks, followed by a one-year finish in Acacia wood casks. Bottled at 47% ABV, it is nonchill-filtered but most probably with added colouring. A total of 12,000 bottles were released, and they are still available on the distillery’s website for £75/€92.
Colour:
Chestnut (but fake)
Nose:
Neat: The nose presents notes of oranges, milk chocolate, and caramel, accompanied by toasted wood and subtle herbal and floral hints. Overall, it is quite straightforward.
Palate:
Neat: The palate exhibits a slight astringency with a somewhat oily mouthfeel that initially feels a bit thin. Flavours of oranges, lemon, toasted wood, milk chocolate, instant coffee, dark honey, and digestive biscuits emerge, along with a touch of pepper. One might even detect a hint of rye whisky.
Finish:
The finish retains a light astringency, which slightly dries the gums. It features reduced caramel with orange zest, honey, and digestive biscuits once more.
Comments:
This Bushmills 2008 Distillery Exclusive is a pleasant whiskey, but it lacks a certain element to be truly interesting and captivating. The acacia wood finish likely contributes to the rye-like flavours; however, as it is infrequently used in whiskey production (and prohibited in Scotch whisky, for instance), I lack the experience to fully gauge its impact. While this Bushmills 2008 Distillery Exclusive remains enjoyable, it is difficult to recommend at its current price point.
Rating: 6/10
Bushmills 16-Year-Old Review
Bushmills 16-year-old is an Irish single malt whiskey aged 15 years in a combination of Oloroso sherry and bourbon-seasoned casks, then matured for about 1 year in port wine barrels. It is bottled at 40% ABV, with chill filtration and added colouring. Sold for around £86 in the UK, you can find it in Europe at a way more reasonable price, around €70.
Colour:
Russet (but with added colour)
Nose:
Neat: A little shy, a little vinous, mostly I’d say from the Port finish than the partial Oloroso maturation. Hints of wood, grapes, dark fruit, and a little banana, but also some herbaceous and floral notes.
Palate:
Neat: Light on the arrival, with the mouthfeel being unfortunately quite thin. It starts on fruits and spices, with a peppery heat and hit at first, then pears and apples meet woody bitterness and damp cardboard. There’s also a chemical sweetness, like fructose syrup and burnt caramel, as well as flowers and strawberry and cherry jams.
Finish:
Medium length, with caramel, orange tea, ginger, wood and a lingering peppery heat.
Comments:
This Bushmills 16-year-old is decent, and even quite pleasant, but its dilution likely contributes to the damp cardboard notes and bitterness on the palate. Although bottling it at 46% ABV and without chill filtration might have increased the price due to alcohol duty, I am confident it would have significantly improved this whiskey greatly.
Rating: 5.5/10
Bushmills 21-Year-Old Review
The Bushmills 21-year-old single malt whiskey undergoes a minimum ageing period of 19 years in former Oloroso sherry and bourbon-seasoned casks. It is then blended and transferred into Madeira casks for a final two years of maturation. Unfortunately, like the 16-year-old expression, it is bottled at 40% ABV, with chill filtration and added colouring. A bottle typically retails for around £160 in the UK and €190 in Europe.
Colour:
Ginger (but fake)
Nose:
Neat: The nose starts beautifully, featuring tropical fruits, ripe apricots, pineapple in syrup, oranges, dark berries, plums, and Madeira wine. There are also hints of chocolate, wood, and cinnamon.
Palate:
Neat: It is unfortunate that the ABV is so low, as the initial impression could have been excellent, with tropical fruits and pepper. However, almost immediately, there is more wood than the nose suggested, along with damp cardboard, and the palate quickly deteriorates. The mouthfeel is, sadly, quite thin, with some citrus and pepper.
Finish:
The citrus and pepper persist, accompanied by charred oak, coffee, and black tea leaves.
Comments:
Once again, we have a promising whiskey with an impressive age statement that has been let down by a low ABV. I fear that this whiskey is aimed at the same audience as Johnnie Walker Blue Label: those who prioritise status over the actual whisky experience. It is a shame to see such potential wasted, as it could have been significantly better with more strength. Clearly, it is not targeted at whisky enthusiasts who appreciate consistency.