Today we do a small vertical with a trio of releases from the distillery now known as Braeval: the Braes of Glenlivet 25, 27 and 30-year-old. These releases are part of the previous Secret Speyside range from Pernod Ricard, and we’ll do vertical tastings from the other distilleries in this range in the coming weeks. But before we crack on with the tastings, let’s talk a bit about the history of this distillery.
Braeval or Braes of Glenlivet?
The Braes of Glenlivet distillery, now known as Braeval, is a Scotch whisky distillery located in Chapeltown, Banffshire, Scotland, in the heart of the Speyside region. Founded in 1973 by Seagram, it was originally named Braes of Glenlivet and built to produce malt whisky primarily for blending purposes, especially for blends owned by its parent company, such as Chivas Regal. The distillery was notable for being one of the most modern in Scotland at the time of its construction, featuring a fully automated operation with all equipment housed in a single open-plan space.
Historically, the Braes of Glenlivet area was known for illicit whisky distilling in the 18th and 19th centuries, a tradition that local rumours suggest may have continued well into the 20th century due to the region’s remote location and ideal conditions for secret distillation. The distillery itself was established on a mountain ridge at an altitude of approximately 350 metres, making it the highest distillery in Scotland.
In 1995, the distillery was renamed Braeval to avoid confusion with the nearby and more famous Glenlivet Distillery, especially after Seagram acquired Glenlivet Distillers Ltd in 1977 and sought to clarify branding distinctions within its portfolio. The distillery changed ownership to Chivas Brothers, a subsidiary of Pernod Ricard, in the early 2000s. It was mothballed in 2002 but reopened in 2008 and has since resumed full production, continuing to supply malt whisky mainly for blends, though some single malt bottlings have been released by independent bottlers and, more recently, by Braeval itself as part of Pernod Ricard’s Secret Speyside range.
Braes of Glenlivet 25-year-old Batch BG/002 (2020) Review
We start with the Braes of Glenlivet 25-year-old batch BG/002 (I’ll use this name even though the distillery is now called Braeval because that’s what’s written on the label). It matured in First Fill American Oak barrels for 25 years before being bottled on the 5th of October 2020, at 48% ABV, without chill filtering. I don’t know for certain that the colour is natural. From £370 in the UK, €430 in France and €450 in Germany for a bottle.
Colour:
Deep copper.
Nose:
Neat: Apples, pears, peaches and apricots; we’re in orchard territory. Vanilla pods, hints of ginger, a little oak, a few drops of lemon juice, and hints of acetone and pear drops.
Palate:
Neat: Quite lemony, with also toasted oak, granny Smith apples, pine resin and pink grapefruit dusted with white sugar. The mouthfeel is a little light but still creamy enough. Black pepper, tea leaves, dried coffee from an empty cup and fresh dough made with live yeast.
Finish:
Chocolate-y juicy oak with some tea and coffee, grapefruit and passion fruit.
Comments:
Lovely fruity nose, not overly complex but definitely inviting. The palate is a bit woody and sour, but refreshing. The finish builds on that and adds a little passion fruit, a shame that didn’t appear earlier.
Rating: 6.5/10
Braes of Glenlivet 27-year-old Batch BG/002 (2020) Review
Next, we have the Braes of Glenlivet 27-year-old Batch BG/002, which is almost exactly the same whisky, just two years older, still matured in first fill American Oak barrels, bottled a couple days earlier (on the 3rd of October 2020) and bottled at 48% without chill filtering. About €500 in Europe, and from £430 in the UK.
Colour:
Amontillado.
Nose:
Neat: Close to the 25-year-old, meaning apples, pears, peaches and apricots, but also hints of passion fruit and roasted pineapple. Custard, light whiffs of spices. The passion fruit unfortunately quickly dissipates. Red apples, oranges
Palate:
Neat: Red apples, oranges, plums and grapes, tropical fruits with a bit of grapefruit, raspberries, blackcurrants… Some dark chocolate, a little beeswax and unexpected hints of dental moulding paste. Pepper
Finish:
Apples and spices, a little oaky chocolate and nice warmth lingering, but the finish screams for another sip.
Comments:
Superb nose, very fruity and summer-y. The palate is like the nose, a real step-up from the 25yo, summery and very fruity. Superb dram. If you could afford the 25-year-old and really wanted a Braes of Glenlivet, eat pasta for a few more days and go towards this 27-year-old instead. But I agree, it is way too expensive.
Rating: 8/10
Braes of Glenlivet 30-year-old Batch BG/002 (2020) Review
Last but not least, we have the Braes of Glenlivet 30-year-old Batch BG/002, distilled in December 1988 and bottled on the 22nd of October 2020, making it in fact 31-year-old. It matured in American Oak Barrels and Hogsheads before being bottled at cask strength, which is 53% ABV for this batch, and without chill filtration. Like the other two, no mention of added colouring or lack thereof. About £600 in the UK, €650 in Poland and close to €800 in Germany (and the equivalent of €670 in New Zealand if we have readers over there!)
Colour:
Amontillado.
Nose:
Neat: Once again some kind of evolution (even though it was distilled before) of the younger one (the 27-year-old in this case), with the same fruits, including the tropical ones, plus some juicy mirabelle plums. However, the custard seems a bit toned down at first compared to the 27, before coming back after some time.
With water: Jaffa cakes, pain aux raisins, dusty books.
Palate:
Neat: Sweet and fruity arrival, with at first some sugar cubes before the fruits from the nose all arrive, bringing a nice tangy character. Liquorice wood sticks, white and black peppers, dried herbs, oak and a little chocolate.
With water: The fruits are still here but with a more pronounced oakiness. Ginger and pencil shavings. Dark chocolate.
Finish:
Some oaky and chocolatey light bitterness lingers with hints of citrus fruits and chocolate cigarettes for kids (with the eatable paper),
Comments:
As good as the 27yo, though slightly different. It’s better when drunk neat, as it becomes a bit more bitter after reduction. Hard to recommend it over the 27-year-old, especially with the hefty price tag, despite the fact that this Braes of Glenlivet 30-year-old is really a wonderful whisky.
Rating: 8/10
Thanks Aurélien! Bottle pictures courtesy of Whiskybase.