On the tasting table today are two Glen Grants in their twenties: a Glen Grant 2003 from Royal Mile Whiskies and a 1998 from The Whisky Agency. It has been far too long since we last delved into Glen Grant at More Drams, which is a shame; this distillery can produce truly stunning whisky—as long as you look beyond the standard core range.
Glen Grant 1998 The Whisky Agency (2024) Review
We start with the oldest: a Glen Grant that saw the light of day back in 1998. It spent 26 years in a hogshead before The Whisky Agency bottled it in 2024. The cask gave an outturn of 150 bottles filled at 53.5% ABV, without chill filtration nor added colour.
Colour:
Jonquille.
Nose:
Neat: The nose is full and inviting, built on ripe pears, golden apples and greengages. These fruits are underpinned by lemon candy notes and a light barley‑syrup sweetness. There is a subtle chalky touch and a faint hint of pine‑forest freshness, alongside soft vanilla and a whisper of sourdough‑bread malt. A light floral lift – hints of camomile and meadow flowers – keeps the nose lively and Speyside‑bright.
With water: A splash of water softens the alcohol heat and amplifies the orchard‑fruit core, making the pears, peaches and lemon zest more expressive on the nose.
Palate:
Neat: The palate is vibrant and precise, with yellow fruits – pears, peaches and apples – driving the show, framed by lemon zest and a touch of grapefruit. The mouthfeel is clean and slightly oily, with a chalky, mineral edge that echoes the nose. Along come fresh‑malt and dough‑like notes that underline the spirit’s youthfulness, even at this age. Camomile and a gentle herbal nuance sit in the background, while the cask‑strength warmth adds a peppery tingle without muddying the fruit‑forward clarity.
With water: The texture becomes creamier, with the chalky‑mineral and camomile notes integrating more smoothly, while the citrus and malt character remain in the foreground.
Finish:
The finish is long, clean and very citrus‑driven, with pears, lemon and grapefruit lingering over a beeswax‑like waxiness and a faint hint of cocoa. The oak is present but restrained, leaving a fresh, slightly drying feeling.
Comments:
Truly excellent: vibrant, fruity and layered, with a level of complexity that feels worlds apart from the official releases. A superb cask selection by TWA, showcasing just how beautiful a bourbon‑matured Speyside whisky can be.
Rating: 7.5/10
Glen Grant 2003 Royal Mile Whiskies (2025) Review
Next, we have a 2003 Glen Grant, which spent 22 years in a sherry hogshead before Royal Mile Whiskies bottled it in 2025. The cask, numbered #59,895, yielded 194 bottles at 52.7% ABV, without chill filtration and with natural colour. This release is still available at Royal Mile Whiskies for £145 a bottle, and in Austria at Hirschenbrunner Spirits for €249 a bottle.
Colour:
Russet
Nose:
Neat: The nose is soft and sweet, built on stewed apples and a hint of cherry compote. Ripe banana and light orchard‑fruit notes add some juiciness. There is also a gentle waxiness and a few drops of honey, alongside a faint bung cloth aroma that hints at the sherry cask without dominating the spirit. The nose feels light and delicate, with a subtle sweetness and a touch of spice that keep it from feeling cloying.
With water: A splash of water tames the alcohol heat and makes the whisky smoother. It brings out more berry‑like fruit and softening the liquorice and chocolate notes. The nose becomes slightly more expressive, with the stewed‑apple and cherry‑compote character gaining clarity.
Palate:
Neat: The palate is alcohol‑forward and hot for its age, with liquorice, blackcurrants, blueberries and bitter chocolate forming the backbone. After a moment, butterscotch emerges, bringing a smoother, sweeter counterpoint to the darker notes, while a peppery edge adds liveliness. Hazelnut and woody notes appear in the mid‑palate, giving structure and a slight dryness that balances the initial sweetness, but also a light bitterness and a slightly rough mouthfeel.
With water: The palate feels rounder and more approachable, with butterscotch and hazelnut remaining in the foreground. However, underripe greengages and blood oranges bring some acidity.
Finish:
The finish is medium‑length, with hazelnut and woody notes lingering alongside a touch of spice. The bitter‑chocolate and liquorice elements fade slowly, leaving a slightly drying, nutty close that feels balanced but not overly complex.
Comments:
I’m less convinced by this Glen Grant from Royal Mile Whiskies. The sherry cask introduces unwelcome acidity and a touch of roughness that feels poorly integrated with the spirit. Perhaps was it the result of a subpar, overly seasoned cask? A genuine shame, and another proof that an age statement does not make quality.