It has been far too long – over three years, in fact – since we last indulged in the delights of Ben Nevis. Today, we remedy that oversight with a duo of recent independent bottlings, and we promise to delve into the half-dozen samples waiting patiently in our drawer very soon. On today’s menu: a Ben Nevis 2014 from the Scotch Malt Whisky Society and a 2012 from The Duchess.
Ben Nevis 2014 SMWS 78.75 Lock, stock and two smoking bananas (2024) Review
This 2014 Ben Nevis, numbered 78.75 and named ‘Lock, stock and two smoking bananas’ was bottled by the Scotch Malt Whisky Society in 2024. It matured first in an ex-bourbon hogshead, before a finish in an ex-Islay HTMC (Heavily Toasted, Medium Charred) hogshead. The cask yielded 263 bottles filled at a hefty 60.3% ABV and, as usual with the SMWS, without chill filtration nor added colour. Its initial RRP was around €95 in Europe, but this is unfortunately sold out.
Colour:
Old gold.
Nose:
Neat: The nose is intense, offering a light green apple tartness and ripe bananas, along with hints of mangoes and pineapple. The intensity makes it difficult to approach the nose too closely to the glass, so let’s try again after reduction.
With water: The intensity of the nose is tamed, allowing for a more in-depth exploration. Hints of salmon sashimi with a few drops of soy sauce, toasted wood, mandarin, dry wood, and a light floral note.
Palate:
Neat: The palate presents smoked oranges and a hit of spices including pepper, ginger, and paprika, accompanied by a light salinity. Hazelnuts and almonds contribute a nutty character, complemented by chocolate, leather, and smoked salmon. The wood then introduces vanilla, pine sap, and a touch of mint. The mouthfeel is firm and waxy.
With water: The palate feels slightly more intense, with a stronger alcohol heat and more citrusy tartness, reminiscent of lemons and clementines. There is a bit more spice, including nutmeg and coriander, along with a lightly bitter, leafy flavour.
Finish:
The finish offers toasted wood, milk chocolate, and smoked salmon, with a warm and light astringency that lingers, accompanied by some light smoke.
Comments:
Earlier this year, at the Lyon Whisky Festival and during an SMWS event on the evening of the first day, I first sampled this Ben Nevis 2014 SMWS and absolutely adored it. Several friends shared my enthusiasm, and we made sure to try it multiple times – purely for scientific purposes, of course. Naturally, our palates were not at their freshest, as we did what many exhibitors do at whisky shows during breaks: quickly eating and rushing to sample what others had to offer.
A few months later, I managed to secure a sample of this Ben Nevis 78.75. Upon tasting it again, I found it slightly less bright and marvellous than I had remembered. However – and this is an important caveat – it remains a very, very good whisky. Perhaps not an 8/10 any longer, but certainly a 7.5. I must find a bottle to explore it further. For science, of course.
Rating: 7.5/10
Ben Nevis 2012 12-year-old The Duchess (2024) Review
Next, we have a 2012 Ben Nevis from The Duchess, a pretty young Dutch independent bottler of whisky and rum. This Ben Nevis, distilled on the 24th of April 2012 and bottled in their ‘Game and wildlife’ series on the 6th of November 2024, matured for 12 years in a bourbon hogshead (cask #117) before yielding 284 bottles at 54.7% ABV, without chill filtration nor added colour. This bottling is still available in Europe, from €89.
Colour:
Pale gold.
Nose:
Neat: This Ben Nevis presents a funky and slightly sulphurous nose. It exudes yeasty dough and compost, with a maritime character reminiscent of kelp and sea spray. Precise aromas are somewhat elusive, but notes of fruity IPA hops, bottled lemon juice, and a metallic tang emerge.
With water: Adding water retains the funk but eliminates the sulphur, revealing hints of honey.
Palate:
Neat: The palate offers good intensity and a slightly hot arrival. It carries the funky character but not the sulphur noted on the nose. The overall impression is very positive, with notes of engine and vegetable oils, lemon, ginger, and a touch of wood. A few drops of coffee add complexity, while the mouthfeel is velvety, oily, and quite full-bodied.
With water: Water sweetens the palate, introducing notes of white and milk chocolate. It also enhances the citrusy tartness and adds a touch of black radish, along with hints of tinned pineapple in syrup.
Finish:
The finish features lemon-infused chocolate, toasted wood, a hint of vinegar, and a touch of sunflower oil. A slight spiciness lingers, contributing to a long and satisfying finish.
Comments:
This Ben Nevis 2012 by The Duchess is an absolute gem – funky, flavourful, and just plain fun to drink. The nose and palate are packed with that signature Ben Nevis funk, which really makes it stand out. Sure, it’s not the most straightforward whisky you’ll try, but that’s part of what makes it so special. At this price, it’s a steal, especially with indie Ben Nevis prices climbing higher and higher these days. If you see a bottle, grab it – you won’t regret it.