We’re comparing two radically different apple brandies: one hails from the famed French producer Christian Drouin, aged 21 years and bottled by That Boutique-y Calvados Company; the other is an English apple brandy of mysterious origin, discovered by Matt McKay in the stocks of London Distillery Co shortly after he took charge. The two spirits are separated by a striking 30% ABV difference. Hold on tight – this is going to be an intense showdown!
Early Landed Calvados?
‘Early landed’ Calvados refers to Calvados oak-aged in Normandy and then shipped to the UK at a young age, where it continued to mature in British cellars. This practice had a distinct impact on maturation, creating unique aromas and textures due to the different climates and cellar environments, before being forbidden by French regulations.
‘Early landed’ Calvados was transported from Normandy to the UK soon after the distillation and matured in portside British warehouses. The climate differences – cooler, damper UK cellars compared to Normandy – affected how the spirit interacted with the wood, resulting in a lighter, more elegant profile, with softer tannins and subtle, fresh fruit notes.
Maturation in the UK allowed slower extraction from the oak and less evaporation due to higher humidity, leading to a usually lower ABV and a gentler aromatic profile than Calvados aged in Normandy. These early landed versions were prized for their finesse and nuanced complexity, with noticeable differences from traditional French-aged Calvados: softer mouthfeel, muted spice and vanilla, and heightened apple and floral character.
The location and duration of barrel ageing are key factors; British cellar conditions generally produced Calvados that was more delicate and aromatically diverse than those aged solely in French cellars.
French regulations eventually forbade the export for ‘early landed’ maturation, primarily to preserve standards for appellation-protected Calvados and ensure all maturation happens within Normandy. The prohibition reinforced the importance of terroir and control over the spirit’s quality and characteristics by regulating barrel aging location and length according to the AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) rules.
Christian Drouin 21-year-old Batch 1 That Boutique-y Calvados Company (2022) Review
This 21-year-old Christian Drouin ’early-landed’ Calvados comes from the Pays d’Auge AOC, and, as I understand it, Christian Drouin sent only eight casks to Great Britain. As a Pays d’Auge Calvados, the distillery double distils it in pot stills, using ciders that can include up to 30% perry pears. The team sent this Calvados to Great Britain in a sherry cask, and That Boutique-y bottled it for their 10th Birthday series at 41.5% ABV. You can still find this bottling in the UK (such as at The Whisky Exchange) for £177, and in France at LMDW for €233.
Colour:
Slightly lighter than tawny.
Nose:
Neat: The nose is notably intense despite the low ABV, with apple aromas dominating and filling the room straight away. There are a range of apple scents – warm compote, tarte tatin, and stewed – while pears become clear once the apples settle. Behind these, cinnamon, cherry stones, and fresh grassy notes also come through.
Palate:
Neat: Apples appear immediately with a velvety mouthfeel that does not come across as thin, even at lower ABV. The palate presents soft, warm spices such as cinnamon and nutmeg, delicate wood tones, fresh dates, and slightly tart pears after the initial apple flavours.
Finish:
The finish is medium in length, bringing warmth and some pepper, followed by apple notes reminiscent of apple juice and apple-infused tea. A touch of sweet mint emerges after a short pause.
Comments:
This Calvados shows a strong and clear apple character across the nose, palate, and finish. Beyond the obvious apple notes, it delivers an additional layer of sophistication that reflects its double decade of ageing. The maturity brings a subtle elegance that can be difficult to capture fully in tasting notes but adds significant depth and balance.
Rating: 7/10
English Apple Brandy 12-year-old London Distillery Co. (2025) Sample Review
Matt McKay found two casks of this 12-year-old English Apple Brandy in the London Distillery Company warehouse. He chose to bottle samples to include in the press and influencer kit alongside samples of Renascence and the first edition of their English blend, The Golden Union. Although this apple brandy has not been released in full bottles yet, it seemed a good sparring partner for the Christian Drouin. The team filled several sample bottles at full strength, reaching an impressive 71.1% ABV. Since it remains unreleased, no rating will be given, but a review and proper tasting notes follow. Without the sample bottle on hand while wrapping up this review, a Photoshop mockup was created – admittedly not very well. Apologies, Matt!
Colour:
Tawny
Nose:
Neat: The nose opens strong but remains balanced despite the high ABV. Apples take centre stage without overwhelming the other aromas. Notes of cinnamon rolls, brown sugar, raisins, custard-filled pastry, uncooked pancake batter, and hints of pears develop alongside.
With water: The nose sharpens and the alcohol becomes more apparent, slightly affecting the balance. Faint hints of citrus, milk chocolate, and stewed apples come forward. Adding more water reveals dusty apples and a curious note reminiscent of sugar dusted on leather.
Palate:
Neat: The spirit clearly carries a high ABV, but it feels closer to the low ’60s than the low 70s. Stewed apples with vanilla sugar, lightly sweet pear jam, a touch of chocolate, chilli pepper, and strawberry jam. The palate recalls a thin apple pie with slightly overcooked, darkened puff pastry, accompanied by a light wood bitterness. The mouthfeel is oily and slightly drying.
With water: The apple brandy flavours intensify, with an added peppery note. Further dilution softens the mouthfeel into creaminess and brings forward some red fruits, alongside the continued dominance of apples and a subtle hint of Tabasco sauce. This is very good!
Finish:
The finish shows notes of apple caramel, demerara sugar, and light wood. It feels medium in length with a gentle peppery edge. After some time, astringency emerges, drying the gums noticeably.
Comments:
This apple brandy ABV is astonishing, but it delivers remarkable coherence for the category. It drinks surprisingly well neat, especially for those familiar with cask-strength whisky; however, those accustomed only to spirits at 40–46% ABV might find it less approachable. The spirit offers not only a dominant apple presence but also a wide array of additional aromas and flavours, creating notable complexity despite its relatively young age of twelve years. While withholding a formal rating, as this sample comes from an unreleased batch – meaning the profile could change significantly before release – this brandy shows great promise. It will be interesting to see how Matt McKay develops it further.
Rating: Not applicable.
English apple brandy sample provided by London Distillery Company. The Drouin bottle image was stolen on That Boutique-y Whisky Company’s website, and the TLDC one, well, poorly photoshopped from a Golden Union bottle picture. Sorry again, Matt!