We return to Orkney with a review of three Independent Secret Orkney bottlings. As a reminder, Orkney only has two whisky distilleries: Highland Park and Scapa. None of these bottlings should be from Scapa, so you can easily guess their origin. By the way, I plan to review Scapa’s new core range soon, so stay tuned for that. We will examine today’s whiskies in ascending order of ABV, starting immediately with a relatively high proof, as the lowest ABV (57.1%!) in this selection is the Signatory 100 Proof bottling.
Secret Orkney 2010 100 Proof Edition #15 Signatory Vintage (2024) Review
Our first secret Highland Park for today is a whisky distilled in 2010 and bottled on April 4, 2024, by Signatory Vintage as part of their 100 Proof series. It was bottled, quite logically, at 57.1% ABV, or 100 UK Proof, after 14 years of maturation in a combination of first-fill Oloroso sherry butts and bourbon hogsheads. True to their ethos (except for the Cloudy range), it was bottled without chill filtration or added colour. Released around €50 in 2024, this bottle is now sold out.
Colour:
Burnished.
Nose:
Neat: The nose opens with a lovely aroma of smoked oranges. This quickly develops into a balanced mix of sherry and bourbon-influenced fruitiness: ripe grapes, luscious peaches, sweet dates, and hints of red fruits. There is also a pleasant sweetness of caramel and vanilla, accented by subtle grassy notes of heather and oregano.
With water: Additional peat smoke and woodiness emerge. Hazelnuts come forward alongside a gentle spice reminiscent of cumin.
Palate:
Neat: The palate arrives warm and spicy with a noticeable alcohol bite, featuring pepper and a dash of Tabasco heat. Toasted wood bitterness blends with bright citrus elements – grapefruit and lemon peel – while salted dark chocolate and coffee add depth. A fresh grassy character appears, layered with menthol and freshly mowed grass. The mouthfeel is oily and rich.
With water: The mouthfeel becomes syrupy, coaxing out brighter citrus flavours while unlocking wood tannins. Notes of leather, forest undergrowth, and forest honey add complexity.
Finish:
The finish is long, warm, and peppery, leaving lingering flavours of citrus, wood bitterness, and dark cherry liquor akin to Mon Chéri chocolates.
Comments:
This Highland Park is lovely and flavourful, showcasing many of the distillery’s signature elements. However, it doesn’t achieve complete balance, as the wood and spiciness it imparts feel a bit too dominant for my taste. Despite this, it remains a very good whisky overall and stands clearly above most official releases from this ‘secret’ Orkney distillery.
Rating: 6.5/10
Secret Orkney 17-year-old The Tasteful 8 Brühler Whiskyhaus (2022) Review
Next, we have a 17-year-old Secret Orkney, distilled in 2005, and bottled in 2022 by Brühler Whiskyhaus as part of their The Tasteful 8 series. The whisky spent 17 years maturing in an Oloroso sherry cask, producing 272 bottles at a cask strength of 57.3% ABV. Although nearly sold out, a shop in Austria still offers it for €169.
Colour:
Cider.
Nose:
Neat: The nose reveals a clear sherry influence with a foundation of red and dark fruits. The sherry cask shows some dirtiness with traces of sulfur. It’s not awful but it takes a bit of time to go past it. Then, delicate smoke mingles with herbal notes of eucalyptus, while the aromas of rum and raisin ice cream and smoked ham add some complexity.
With water: The sherry influence intensifies, becoming more vinous but shifting towards a sour edge rather than tart.
Palate:
Neat: The mouthfeel starts lighter than the Signatory vintage, but sulfur continues on the palate, presenting as stroked matches. The alcohol bite remains pronounced – 17 years in the cask have not fully tamed it. Once you manage to go beyond the sulfur, flavours of raisins and charred wood emerge alongside marzipan, hazelnuts, lemon, strong coffee, and burning wood smoke.
With water: After reduction, the profile changes little, with a slight increase in wood bitterness.
Finish:
The finish is medium to short with fading citrus tartness, pronounced wood bitterness, and a lingering warmth.
Comments:
I must admit this 17-year-old ’Secret Orkney’ disappoints me. The oloroso sherry cask delivers a dirty, sulfury character that clearly overwhelms the distillate. I know some people prefer a stronger sherry profile and more wood influence than I do, but this Highland Park from Brühler Whiskyhaus doesn’t resonate with me. However, if you enjoy dirty sherry bombs, you will definitely appreciate it.
Rating: 5.5/10
An Orkney Distillery 2005 The Single Cask Limited (2022) Review
Last but not least, we feature our third Secret Orkney, distilled on November 8, 2005, and which The Single Cask Limited bottled on November 9, 2022. This Highland Park matured for exactly 17 years… and one day in ex-bourbon hogshead #7 before bottling it at cask strength (61.5% ABV) without chill filtration or added colour. The release mostly sold out, as the only shop I found listing it ships only to Hungary and Slovakia.
Colour:
Pale gold.
Nose:
Neat: The nose surprises with softness despite the high ABV. It opens with light aromas of vanilla and lemon, accompanied by floral honey and a faint ethereal smoke. Subtle notes of marzipan and fresh croissant dough mingle with juicy apricots and white grapes.
With water: The nose remains consistent, with reduction bringing no notable changes.
Palate:
Neat: The palate starts softly before smoke, lemon, and spices build progressively. A fleeting alcohol bite appears briefly then fades rapidly. Flavours of milk and white chocolate, forest honey, and almonds unfold, followed by smoked lemon and a few drops of grapefruit juice.
With water: The palate gains sweetness, introducing icing sugar, a hint of coconut shavings, and some nuttiness.
Finish:
The finish lingers on lemony flavours with a warm throat sensation, subtle wood, and marzipan notes. The intensity fades gradually, but the lemon tartness lingers longer.
Comments:
This Orkney 17-year-old from The Single Cask Ltd stands out as the best of the three secret Highland Park we tasted today. Despite carrying the highest ABV, it remains the easiest to sip, masterfully balancing tart, sweet, and smoky notes. Its harmonious complexity and approachability make it the clear highlight of the selection.