Five Indy Bottled Ben Nevis

It has been several months since a bottle from Ben Nevis last featured on More Drams, and the absence has certainly been felt. Ben Nevis distillery is famed not only for its historic roots – dating back to 1825 under the watch of the legendary ‘Long John’ MacDonald – but also for the distinctive, full-bodied spirit it produces. As a distillery whose small output and varied cask management have resulted in an array of characterful single malts and striking independent bottlings, Ben Nevis remains perpetually in demand. Now, with the anticipation that only a rummage through the sample drawers can inspire, let’s revisit this Highland stalwart. Five indy bottled Ben Nevis samples, spanning different casks, ages and independent bottlers: Wilson & Morgan, Swell de Spirits, Hidden Spirits, Elixir Distillers and Signatory Vintage.

Ben Nevis 2013 Wilson & Morgan (2020) Review

We start our tasting session with a Ben Nevis distilled in 2013 and bottled by independent bottler Wilson & Morgan in 2020. This whisky matured in a single sherry butt, cask number 1083, before being reduced to 46% ABV and bottled without chill filtration or added colour. Released five years ago, this release is obviously sold out.

Ben Nevis 2013 Wilson & Morgan (2020)

Colour:

Chestnut.

Nose:

Neat: On first nosing, a wave of malt richness evokes strong Trappist ale and a touch of struck match sulphur. Dark and dried fruits, including figs, dates, and tangy apricots, mingle with an inviting hint of blackcurrant jam. Generous, warm baking spices – cinnamon especially, joined by the subtle spice of speculoos biscuits – rise next. These are softened by creamy undertones reminiscent of hand lotion, a suggestion of shoe polish, and honeycomb sweetness lingering in the background.

Palate:

Neat: The palate carries forward the rich and creamy impression, opening with ripe puréed peaches and sweet raspberries, immediately wrapped in warming, robust spice – cinnamon, cloves, and pepper all making themselves known. Bitter orange marmalade asserts itself mid-palate, balancing a surge of spicy oak. Dark chocolate and milky coffee – sweetened and stirred – add a bit of depth, but there’s a thread of artificial sweetness that stands apart in the otherwise harmonious ensemble.

Finish:

The finish holds steady with lingering pepper and cinnamon spice, joined by the familiar taste of Jaffa cakes. It remains medium in length.

Comments:

This Ben Nevis distinctly reflects the character of a modern seasoned sherry butt maturation, marked by a subtle but unmistakable light sulphury aroma. This trait, familiar from other Wilson & Morgan releases I have tried, adds a layer of complexity though it can be polarising. The expression would likely have benefited from being bottled at cask strength or a higher proof, where its flavours and intensity could unfold more fully and with greater impact. At its current strength, the whisky feels somewhat restrained, as if held back from achieving its fullest potential.

Rating: 6/10


Ben Nevis 2012 Swell de Spirits (2021) Review

Next, we turn to a slightly older Ben Nevis, distilled in December 2012 and bottled in August 2021 by the French independent bottler Swell de Spirits, who have quickly gained a strong reputation for selecting exceptional casks. This expression matured for eight years in a first-fill Oloroso sherry cask, number 1902, producing a limited run of just 297 bottles in their distinctive 500 ml format. Bottled at a robust 59.2% ABV, it was presented with natural colour and without chill filtration. As is often the case with Swell de Spirits releases, this bottling has already sold out.

Ben Nevis 2012 Swell de Spirits (2021)

Colour:

Russet.

Nose:

Neat: Autumn orchard fruits lead, with red apples and ripe plums layered over golden hay, cereal, and the deep sweetness of caramelised tarte tatin. Vanilla weaves through gentle oak, while the high bottling strength adds lively, but integrated, spice. The expected red fruits from the sherry show discretion, with whispers of blueberries and raspberries.

With water: Reduction brings the smoke of a dying oak fire in the fireplace, but after some more aeration, the smoke disappears, leaving place to dried cereals and vanilla pudding.

Palate:

Neat: Stewed fruits and vanilla cream announce themselves first, joined by a touch of oat and a robust berry compote – blackberries and tart redcurrants – in the mid-palate. The alcohol brings warmth and subtle spice, never overpowering, with a rounded texture and a light astringency. Melted chocolate and honey bring some comforting flavours, as well as some cigar tobacco.

With water: Blackcurrant purée, with smoked dark chocolate, and a smouldering cigar that you forgot on the ashtray, too busy analysing this Ben Nevis.

Finish:

Oatcakes, spiced apple chutney, and a final hint of toasty warmth linger long after the sip.

Comments:

This superb young Ben Nevis, handpicked by Swell de Spirits, presents a flawless marriage between the distillate and its first-fill Oloroso sherry cask maturation. Neither element overwhelms the other, achieving a harmonious balance that speaks to meticulous cask selection. As the days grow shorter and wetter, this whisky becomes the perfect companion – ideal for quiet moments beside the fire, offering comfort and warmth as night falls… for the lucky ones who managed to acquire a bottle when it was released.

Rating: 7.5/10


Ben Nevis 1998 Hidden Spirits (2019) Review

We now jump back 16 years to continue our review with a Ben Nevis distilled in 1998. Hidden Spirits bottled this whisky in 2019 to celebrate the 40th birthday of Stefano Cremaschi, founder of The Whisky’s Roundabout. The whisky matured for 21 years in sherry cask #BN9819, producing 279 bottles filled at 55.4% ABV. The bottler did not use chill filtration or added colour. A few German retailers still list the whisky at €500 or more per bottle, often with a significant markup compared to slightly lower prices on the secondary market.

Ben Nevis 1998 Hidden Spirits (2019)

Colour:

Deep copper.

Nose:

Neat: A rich, complex aroma with fresh sea air and a mix of dried fruits such as prunes, raisins, apricots, and red apples. Sweet honeycomb and vanilla blend with spices like clove, cinnamon, and pepper. The nose also reveals herbal and savoury notes, including dried oregano, cedar, soy sauce, and subtle earthy hints, like wet stone and a touch of miso.

With water: Reduction brings exhaust fumes and dusty shelves, making for a drier nose. Plum skins and dried espresso crema on the side of the cup.

Palate:

Neat: The palate is full-bodied, starting with honeyed apples and tropical fruits such as mango, guava, pineapple, and melon. Herbal and oak-driven notes of pine, charred wood, and light peat develop, together with a dry sherry influence showing flavours of walnuts, soy sauce, and umami. There are also hints of coffee, dark chocolate, and gentle spice.

With water: Adding water softens the palate and enhances dry sherry and umami notes, along with green tea, herbal teas, and chocolate nuances.

Finish:

The finish is medium to long with lingering dried fruit sweetness – honeycomb, milk chocolate, tangerine peel, rhubarb, and raisins – alongside mineral earthiness, sandalwood, and a subtle salty umami depth.

Comments:

This whisky showcases stunning complexity and elegance. The sherry cask and the Ben Nevis distillate blend seamlessly, each amplifying the other’s best qualities. The result is a beautifully balanced and superbly integrated dram whisky.

Rating: 8/10


Ben Nevis 1996 The Single Malts of Scotland Elixir Distillers (2017) Review

We now turn to a Ben Nevis from its most celebrated and sought-after vintage: 1996. Distillers created this 20-year-old whisky on 25 October 1996, and Elixir Distillers bottled it on 20 March 2017 as part of their Single Malts of Scotland collection. The whisky matured in sherry butt number #1531, producing 405 bottles at 52.2% ABV, without chill filtration nor added colour.

Ben Nevis 1996 The Single Malts of Scotland Elixir Distillers (2017)

Colour:

Russet.

Nose:

Neat: The nose is rich with dominant notes of dark chocolate combined with citrus fruits like orange marmalade, mandarin, and lemon. Sweetness comes from muscovado sugar, honey, and dried fruits such as apricot and mango. There are also nutty aromas – walnuts and marzipan – blended with subtle tobacco, pipe smoke, and hints of exotic woods. Floral and herbal touches appear alongside light spices like cloves and nutmeg.

With water: Reduction brings fallen autumnal leaves, more muscovado sugar, both walnut cake and oil, and sweet pipe tobacco. Cinnamon rolls and fresh pastries.

Palate:

Neat: The palate is robust and full-bodied, with an initial sweetness balanced by oak-driven spice and herbal bitterness. Flavours include orange liqueur, black liquorice, ginger, pepper, and toffee, alongside rich dark chocolate and cocoa powder. Tropical fruit notes such as grapefruit and banana add some tropical brightness, while a touch of leather and a hint of menthol bring even more complexity.

With water: A few drops of water allow more tropical fruits to shine, with maracuja and mangoes appearing now, but as tropical curds instead of fresh fruits.

Finish:

The finish is long and warming, with persistent oak spice, pepper, and ginger alongside notes of dark chocolate, rum, dried fruit, toffee, and a restrained vanilla sweetness. It fades gently with traces of mint and earthy undertones.

Comments:

Another truly exceptional Ben Nevis, this time from the renowned 1996 vintage. The whisky reveals tropical fruit notes with clarity, though I wonder if maturation in a more seasoned sherry cask or even a bourbon cask might have allowed these vibrant fruits to shine even more brightly. Nevertheless, it remains a stunning dram.

Rating: 8/10


Ben Nevis 2019 100 Proof #17 Signatory Vintage (2024) Review

Spying this youthful Ben Nevis amidst the messy collection of samples on my desk, I decided to include it as a last-minute addition to this review. Distilled in 2019 and bottled on May 22, 2024, by Signatory Vintage, it forms the 17th release in their esteemed 100 Proof series. Bottled at 57.1% ABV (equivalent to 100 British proof), this expression was presented without chill filtration or added colour, preserving its natural integrity. Surprisingly, it remains available at several German retailers, with prices starting as low as €43.90.

Ben Nevis 2019 100 Proof #17 Signatory Vintage (2024)

Colour:

Deep copper.

Nose:

Neat: The aroma is richly peated yet balanced with sweet and savoury layers. Initial scents offer mineral peat, earthy smoke, and maritime notes of scallops and sea salt. There is also a dirty side, with engine oil, smoke and tar. This is complemented by tobacco, liquorice, and gentle spices like cinnamon and pepper. Fruity hints of apple, blood orange, red apple skin, plum skin, and light esters add complexity alongside roasted walnuts and subtle floral honey.

With water: Reduction does not tame the nose. However, the smoke seems to become drier and ashier, farmy and funky aromas slightly stronger, with oily and yeasty peat.

Palate:

Neat: The palate is full-bodied and heavily peated, with a creamy texture, almost waxy. The palate features smoked cheese, bacon, and candied fruits, including date, figs, and grapes, and soft caramel. Sweetness also arises from vanilla custard, toffee, and honey, balanced by fresh fruit flavours of apple, pear and blood orange. Spicy notes of cinnamon, chilli, and black pepper interact with herbal sea salt, iodine, and a good amount of peat smoke. The youthfulness is evident but well managed with a pleasant density.

With water: A few drops of water seem to silent the fruits, leaving mostly the funkiness and peat express themselves, but sweet peat this time, less maritime. Marzipan and walnut wine.

Finish:

The finish is medium length with warming earthy peat and light smoky tobacco. There are lingering notes of creamy toffee, salted caramel, orange peel, roasted ham, and subtle dark fruits like strawberries and peaches. A cooling, slightly saline maritime character remains at the end.

Comments:

This young Ben Nevis was added to this review at the last minute, and it’s a chance I tried it last. Since it’s heavily peated, I would have had to wait quite a moment before being able to taste the others. This 5-year-old 2019 Ben Nevis is youthful and exuberant, fun and without shyness. It goes straight in your face, takes no prisoners, and is a lot of fun. This is tasty, funky, powerful, young and delicious. Excellent selection, and well done on Signatory for bottling something this young and being upfront with the young age.

Rating: 7/10

Thanks a lot, Viktor!

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