We’ve reviewed rums… only twice on More Drams. I have a few samples accumulating, but it’s too hot with the third heatwave of the year in France, so let’s just have four today. We’re trying rums from a distillery located really close to where I live, Breizh’Cool, as well as an 8-year-old Hampden and a 19-year-old Caroni bottled by Valinch & Mallet.
Breizh’Cool Gwenn Rhum Ambré (2025) Review
Breizh’Cool (also written Breizh Cool) is a Breton craft distillery founded in August 2016 near Rennes, in Acigné (Ille-et-Vilaine), and claims to be the first fully certified organic distillery in Brittany. The Gwenn is the distillery’s flagship expression – the name means ‘white’ in Breton – and comes in two versions: a blanc at 45% and the ambré (amber) at 45%. Both are made from organic blackstrap molasses sourced from Paraguay, fermented slowly and with particular attention to the process – the Gwenn specifically uses vinasse (stillage from the previous distillation) reintroduced into the fermentation to add complexity, distinguishing it from the Forbann range. Distillation is carried out in a home-designed copper pot still with several rectification plates, after a 13-day fermentation. The Rhum Ambré Gwenn is then matured in new American oak and ex-whisky casks from a Breton distillery.
This rum is bottled at 45% ABV, no age statement, certified organic (FR-BIO-09), with no added sugar nor additives (except water), in a 70 cl stoneware/dark glass bottle. Current French retail pricing is around €45, with its distribution being currently limited to France and immediate European markets.
Colour:
Pale gold.
Nose:
Neat: Honeyed and mildly floral, with a lightly honeyed sweetness which sits over the molasses-rum base. Vanilla and subtle wood notes from oak contact round the aromatic profile, giving a straw and faintly sweet character. The underlying blanc distillate adds citrus (orange, lemon zest), a light farmyard/fermentation note from the slow fermentation and vinasse addition, and a mild metallic freshness. The nose is clearly evocative of molasses-based rum, slightly boozy.
Palate:
Neat: Warm but not aggressive at entry, with a silky, rounded texture described. Pepper, wood, and dried fruits develop through the mid-palate. Molasses and brown sugar, with molasses-derived citrus (orange zest), and a more mineral, yeast-driven character taking place. Some dryness and spices come from the new American oak, bringing some bitterness as well.
Finish:
The finish is medium in length, lightly smoky and sweet, with citrus peel, oak, and a good hit of pepper.
Comments:
Well, it’s hard for me to properly evaluate a rum because of my lack of experience with this spirit category, but I must admit I was happily surprised by the quality of this rum, from a distillery located a short walk from my home. Breizh’Cool seems to be a promising distillery, and I’ll have to explore their other spirits. What I can say about this Rhum Ambré Gwenn is that it feels clearly superior over supermarket rums, with way more complexity and depth.
Rating: 6.5/10
Breizh’Cool Gwenn Rhum Blanc (2025) Review
Well, after tasting Breizh’Cool’s Rhum Ambré, I wanted to try their white rum, so I came by the distillery to buy a mini. They also have a straight from the still white rum, at still proof, but unfortunately, it is a limited edition they don’t do minis of. This Gwenn Rhum Blanc is bottled at 45% ABV, but their next batch will be bottled at 50% ABV. But for now, we’re trying the one bottled at 45% ABV, certified organic (BIO), with no added sugar and no colouring, in a 70 cl bottle. No cask contact – this is a pure unaged white rum. Current French retail pricing is approximately €45 across French retailers. No UK or US prices, as distribution remains principally domestic French and local Breton channels.
Colour:
Clear.
Nose:
Neat: Pleasant and well balanced: citrus leads clearly – orange and yellow lemon – blended with the typical aromas of an artisanal pot still rum: hay, fermentation funk, and a light metallic quality. Alcohol is present at 45% but not aggressive; the overall impression is of a well-integrated, accessible nose without major defects, but it does smell a bit new make-ish, of course. The vinasse addition to fermentation gives a nice fermentative depth.
Palate:
Neat: Soft and lighter in body than the nose suggests – the 45% ABV is appropriately gentle here, silky and soft. The fermentation notes and a light yeast-driven character return on the palate, with the citrus moving from the foreground to the background, presenting more as zest than fresh fruit. A mineral, slightly earthy quality comes to the fore – the most distinctive characteristic of the palate.
Finish:
The finish is medium short in length, a clean close with residual citrus zest and mineral notes.
Comments:
Despite rum, and especially white rum, not being my spirit of choice, I must admit I quite like Breizh’Cool’s Gwenn white rum. It’s clean, fresh, well made, honestly tasty, and with the current heat, it could be very nice over a cube of ice or as a Ti’punch. And you’ll wonder: is Coldorak saying he’d drink a spirit over ice? Has heat melted his brain? Well, maybe it has, but I do see myself trying that very soon. I think it might go nicely with this rum. Take my rating with a pinch of salt, as I’m not a rum specialist at all, and take that as a really positive rating.
Rating: 6/10
Hampden 8-Year-Old Pure Single Jamaican Rum (2020s) Review
Hampden Estate is one of the oldest rum distilleries in the world, founded in 1753 on the Trelawny Plain in northwestern Jamaica. Its production methods have remained largely unchanged since the 18th century: molasses fermentation in open wooden vats with natural wild yeasts, the deliberate use of dunder (sour stillage returned to the fermentation), muck (a pit of decomposing organic matter that contributes to the legendary Hampden ester profile), and double-retort copper pot still distillation. Hampden classifies its output into distinct marks defined by ester levels, ranging from OWH (40–80 gr/hL AA, lightest) through LROK, DOK, HLCF, and up to C<>H (the heaviest). The current ‘Pure Single Jamaican Rum’ is an 8-Year-Old bottled at 46% and made entirely from the OWH mark. Hampden released (or maybe it was La Maison du Whisky?) a sample pack with all their ester levels. We really need to take the time to compare all 8 (I think) of them!
The Hampden 8-year-old is bottled at 46% ABV, with no added sugar or colouring, and is 100% tropically aged for a minimum of 8 years in ex-bourbon casks at the Trelawny estate. Prices are approximately £70 in the UK; €75 in France; and approximately $100 in the US.
Colour:
Deep copper.
Nose:
Neat: Grilled and ripe pineapple is the defining opening note – prominent, sweet, and immediately recognisable as Hampden. Overripe banana, banana bread, and banana leaves follow closely, supported by candied tropical fruits: papaya, guava, passion fruit, and mango. A light glue/acetone note from the esters rounds out the first wave. After some aeration, almond powder, cherry, walnut liqueur, a hint of pine, clove, and orange zest develop. Warm oak and vanilla from the ex-bourbon casks sit in the background without dominating.
Palate:
Neat: The palate punches above its 46% weight from the first sip. Spice arrives quickly and assertively – ginger, cinnamon, clove, and cardamom – layered over a strong ester-y pineapple and banana base. The mid-palate develops a creamy, almost banana-bread texture, with caramelised nuts, blackcurrants, candied prunes, and a slight dark oily note adding depth. Caramelised apple and light vanilla from the ex-bourbon cask weave through the fruit. This is bone-dry in sweetness – absolutely no added sugar.
Finish:
The finish is long, moist, warming, fruity, and funky. Cinnamon spice and sweet banana fade to reveal apple jam and mint before the tannic notes of the ex-bourbon oak close the dram, encouraging another sip.
Comments:
Despite being in the low esters mark, this Hampden 8-year-old is already full of acetone, esters and tropical fruits, but maybe with an excess of bananas for my taste (I hate bananas). But, despite that, this really is a very good rum, really flavourful, punchy and funky, and something I think any rum lover must have in its cabinet. Unless you lack taste and are all into the overly sweet South American style rums, but then, there’s not much we can do to save you. Anyway, back to this Hampden, excellent stuff.
Rating: 7/10
Caroni 1997 Valinch & Mallet (2016) Review
We’ve already reviewed an independently bottled Caroni in the past, from Swell de Spirits, but we never properly introduced the distillery, so let’s fix that first. Caroni distillery, founded in 1923 in Trinidad, was owned by the Trinidadian government and closed definitively in 2002, making all existing stocks from the distillery finite and irreplaceable. The distillery operated column stills produced both ‘Heavy’ and ‘Light’ marque rums from molasses; the 1997 vintage is among the most sought-after in the collector market, representing one of the final years of full production before closure. Valinch & Mallet, an Italian-born independent bottler originally specialising in Scotch whisky, selected cask #100 for its aromatic characteristics – a single ex-bourbon barrel aged via a combination of tropical (Trinidad) and continental (Europe) maturation, resulting in a more balanced and subtle profile than fully tropical Caroni expressions.
This Caroni 19-year-old was bottled in 2016 at 51.8% ABV, from a single cask (#100), with no added sugar or colouring. The cask yielded 300 numbered bottles. Fully sold out at primary retail, current secondary market pricing approximately falls in the €400 – €600 range.
Colour:
Cider.
Nose:
Neat: Melon is the immediately defining note – ripe cantaloupe and honeydew – alongside a light petroleum and empyreumatic character that sits at the Caroni backbone. Warm sweetness from the continental ageing develops with air: caramel, vanilla, hints of dark chocolate, and some dried fruit (raisins, candied orange peel). The rubber and tar notes characteristic of Caroni are present but restrained – the continental maturation has tamed them to background elements rather than primary drivers. Wax and wood resin add a structural note alongside the fruit.
With water: Water softens the petroleum edge further and allows the fruit – melon, orange, and dried apricots – to come forward more clearly while reducing the industrial backbone.
Palate:
Neat: The palate is faithful to the nose, with the empyreumatic, industrial Caroni character – tar, resin, wax – more assertive at cask strength, balanced by the persistent melon sweetness from the nose. The alcohol is notable and requires managing at 51.8%, but the overall impression is one of balance rather than aggression. Dried fruit, caramelised sugar, and vanilla from the ex-bourbon cask run through the mid-palate, with a slight coppery note and light spice on the back.
With water: Water integrates the spirit heat and brings the fruit and wax notes more clearly into the foreground, softening the tar and rubber elements. Some brown sugar and caramel also appear, with a touch of estery funk.
Finish:
Long and persistent – the empyreumatic notes of tar, wax, and resin linger well beyond the swallow, consistent with the Caroni house character. A delicate woodiness and resin close the finish, with the melon and dried fruit fading gradually behind the industrial spine.
Comments:
A superb rum, featuring what’s to be expected from a Caroni rum: tar, petrol, and resin, even though the partial continental ageing toned down this petrol signature. Despite that, this is an excellent, flavourful and complex rum, easy to drink at cask strength but also benefiting from a small reduction. Long gone but to be remembered.